Tales and Travel

A Few Days in Paris: Part 2

2009-06-11T19:57:00.010+01:00

Morning, and my girlfriend and I headed for the palace at Versailles. The weather was incredibly hot and we decided not to look around inside but instead go directly into the gardens. Even though it felt like we were going to melt we wandered around looking at the ornate water fountains.

Versailles really isn’t for everyone and in my opinion it does lack in terms of general prettiness. The gardens are huge but they are mainly made of huge hedge rows, long stretches of grass and white gravel.

In the afternoon we headed back into Paris to take a cruise down the river. You will be fighting to get on a boat with hundreds of other people, but it's well worth doing as you get to see the city from a different viewpoint.

Our short cruise over we headed out of the city for a few hours to wait for the sun to drop. Later that night we would be coming back into Paris to experience its wonderful lights.

By far the best place to go as the sun begins to set is to the top floor of the Montparnasse tower. It’s the tallest building in the city and on a clear day you can see for miles around giving you the perfect view of the sun set.

Watching the sun gradually set behind the Eiffel Tower is something that I will remember for the rest of my life. It’s moments like this that give Paris its reputation for being such a magical place.

The sun set, we hurried back to the roof of the theatre for the best view of the Eiffel Tower. The tower comes alive at night with lights but if you head over when it’s completely dark it has a surprise in store. Every hour, after darkness falls, a light display makes the tower sparkle. It’s an amazingly pretty sight to behold and something many people don't know about.

Suitably impressed, it was time to head back to the hotel and then home in the morning. I left Paris finally feeling like I had really seen what it had to offer. Paris is my favourite city and really is a stunning and unique place.

A Few Days in Paris: Part 1.

2009-06-11T19:28:00.016+01:00

I have been to Paris a few times over the years. However, I have never really been able to spend more than a couple of hours in the city on any of those occasions. With a spare weekend around the corner I decided that now was the time to really see what it had to offer.

My journey to Paris was incredibly long and took in the delights of Wimbledon, Slough, Kingston and Maidstone. Coaches are certainly not for the impatient but they are cheap. After my five hour tour of the suburbs of London I arrived at Dover and headed across the ocean to my waiting hotel were the morning would bring about extensive touring, wandering and marvelling.

Sun risen and temperature suitably warm, I headed into a remarkably calm and empty Paris to gaze upon the Arc de Triomphe. The structure has some amazing carvings and it's an incredibly piece of architecture.

The tour continued and next up was the iconic Eiffel Tower. The best view of the tower and grounds leading up to it are from the roof of the theatre nearby. There isn’t much you can say about one of the most well known landmarks in the world. It looked nice in the sun with the fountains and set against a blue sky but I was looking forward to returning at night to see the tower lit up.

My brief stop finished it was time to take in the glory of Napoleon’s Mausoleum. Amazingly the roof is made completely out of solid gold. I stopped for second to work out just how big a helicopter would be needed to steel it.

There are wonders hidden all around Paris in unexpected places. For instance, next to the opera house is an apartment store. Look inside it and you will find ornate balconies leading up to an amazing glass ceiling.

Speaking of glass I decided it was time to start the long walk down to the legendary Notre Dame. The place is incredibly imposing and it’s easily one of the most impressive and dramatic cathedrals in Europe.

Inside are the fabled glass windows. Their beauty and depth of colour can’t be accurately captured by any camera. Make sure you leave some time to see it for yourself as Notre Dame can be tricky to reach.

The sun falling, it was time to enter the Monmartre district of the city famous for its artists and street performers. It’s a lively place in the evening and you can get portraits done, eat at one of the lively restaurants or check out the impressive Church of the Sacred Heart that overlooks Paris from a high viewpoint. The acoustics of the church are truly amazing.

It had been a long day and tomorrow would see me heading to the palace at Versailles before returning to the main part of the city to see Paris by night. It promised to be very special.

The Bluebells of Christmas Common

2009-06-06T10:56:00.008+01:00

Christmas Common is an area of outstanding natural beauty located near Stokenchurch. It comprises of woodland and multiple walks over a large area. There are also a number of outstanding viewpoints which let you see for miles over the fields and settlements below.

The highlight of Christmas Common is the mass of bluebell flowers that grow there for a few weeks every spring. They are incredibly beautiful and create one of the thickest carpets of flowers I have found in the UK.

The way the trees overhang the delicate bells often creates a stunning layer effect of light as sun beams dance between the leaves and branches, often casting shadows on the ground. Heading up to the common on a sunny day really is a wonderful thing to behold and it can’t help but conjure images of pixies and other magical creatures hiding among the foliage.

It’s remarkable just how dense the bluebells are and they often seem to stretch off into the distance as far as the eye can see. In some areas you can barely see the ground because the flowers are so densely packed together.

Away from the wooded area containing the glorious bluebells is a magnificent view over the countryside. On a clear day you can see for miles around. The surrounding fields also contain a number of rare wild flowers.

Christmas Common is one of the most beautiful places in the country during the late spring period. On a warm day there is nowhere better to come and enjoy a stroll through magical woodland with a floor painted with swaying blue flowers. The best time to go is late afternoon as when the sun begins to fall it creates a kaleidoscope of rich colours and shadows.

Christmas Common is often busy with artists and painters joining dog walkers and people out for a picnic. However, because it is such a massive place you can always find a quiet spot to relax in the sun. Anyone who lives near the area should explore it for themselves at their next opportunity.

Historic Warwick in the Rain.

2009-04-23T00:42:00.016+01:00

It was raining but I was determined to do something interesting while my girlfriend and I both had a day to spare. Warwick isn’t far away and I had never been there so we set off and hoped the weather wouldn’t turn too bad.

Dominating Warwick is the impressive castle.It was a busy day with lots of tourists. It made things a little difficult in getting around but the atmosphere helped to keep my mind off the rain.

Today, there were lots of events running and the castle grounds were filled with tents and people dressed in medieval armour. I caught one group of soldiers taking about Chelsea, which broke the spell somewhat.

The first event we went to see was a man flying some eagles. Despite the rain there was a large crowd and we all watched as Archie the eagle flew around high in the sky. He truly was a remarkable creature.

After a protracted game bout of hunting for hotdogs we headed off to the river to watch a re-enactment of the storming of the castle. What this equates to is a bunch of ageing men hitting each other with sticks.

Bored of watching people fight we headed down the side of the river towards the castle’s waterwheel. Even in the poor weather the waterway is very pretty and provided a calm moment away from the mass crowds.

The crowds were becoming a bit much to cope with so we headed out into the town. Among the ugly new buildings are quite a few older structures that still hold the character and feel of old world Britain.

Warwick is also home to a rather imposing church which can be seen from just about everywhere in the town. Today it was closed for services so we decided to walk down the road to the old shop area.

Away from the new high street are quite a few antique and art shops taking residence in the old buildings. It’s worth a look but we soon decided to return to the castle to attempt to climb the ramparts.

The rain was still coming down but we marched up the very steep and windy stone staircase to the top of the Warwick castle tower. The view from the top is impressive and the dark skies made it even more dramatic.

After a day spent walking in rain we were beginning to get a little tired. It began to get late and we snuck out to return home before the mass of crowds decided to exit. It was an interesting trip to one of Britain’s most historic towns and worth a visit. I would wait for better weather before I go back again though.

A Short Trip to Hambledon Lock.

2009-04-09T14:37:00.008+01:00

Hidden away in the small village of Aston in Berkshire is Hambledon Lock. One of many locks along the Thames, it is open to the public free of charge and even has a free car park situated a couple of minutes walk away.

My girlfriend and I went to the lock after a few days of heavy rain and the water levels were uncharacteristically high. The higher water level made the cascades even more dramatic than usual.

Hambledon Lock is a good place just to stand for a while and watch the water flow. On sunny days there are often artists and writers perched along it taking in the scenery and listening to the sounds of the water.

It doesn’t take long to walk across the interconnected bridges of the lock and cross over the river. Once at the other side you can head off in whichever direction you wish along the calmer stretch of the Thames.

Hambledon’s surroundings are a little less dramatic than the cascades of water and consist of pretty fields and small areas of woodland. On a sunny day it’s perfect for a leisurely stroll along the river.

Today was a little wet to go traipsing across the farmland and due to the high water level much of it was flooded anyway. However, it did allow for a dramatic sky filled with clouds and rich colours.

The short stop over, we wended our way back along the metal bridges and out of the lock. Hambledon Lock may not seem the obvious choice for a visit but it is free and is the perfect place to start walks along the Thames from. If you are in the Berkshire area it’s well worth a look.

One Day In Brighton.

2009-04-02T21:45:00.019+01:00

I had never been to Brighton before and with the weather being uncharacteristically good my girlfriend and I decided to make the trip. Getting up at stupidly-early-o’clock to beat the traffic we arrived at around 7.30 am.

The first thing to do in any UK seaside resort early in the morning is to find a decent place for breakfast. Luckily for us we there was as café nearby. Every seaside resort has the café run by the good old local boy.

It was still early and, as Brighton is a late waking town, very quiet. We strolled along the pebbly beach front in the sunshine trying to ignore the many workman drilling holes in the road. Brighton is a unique looking place that could only be in England.

Heading down to the marina revealed expensive boats and a promenade of fancy restaurants designed to make the rich fish that owned them bite. The city gradually began to wake up and we headed back to the pier.

Brighton pier is very much an old fashioned British pier filled with all sorts of amusements, rides and food stalls. The wooden boards underfoot conjured images of old movies and people dressed in stripped bathing costumes.

Walking away towards the old Brighton pier, which sadly burned down, I came across a long line of small galleries well worth spending a few minutes in. There are also a number of pieces of interesting art around the beach.

The sun was high in the sky and we paused to sit on the pebbles and listen to the sea. It’s easier to make yourself comfortable on the pebbles than you might think and the way the beach is set it keeps all the noise of the town away.

After our rest bite we headed into the town to look around the cities fabled ‘Lanes’. These are a group of winding narrow streets with various different shops. It was more enjoyable to look around than a charmless shopping centre. There are a number of unique trinket shops here and it is well worth checking out if you are interested in antiques and things of their ilk.

On the way back towards the seafront we took a look around the grounds of the city hall. Brighton’s city hall is, oddly, designed like it was meant to be standing as some grand structure in India.

Our time was up and after another short stay on the beach it was time to head home. Brighton is a unique place and while it may have the image of being a bit old fashioned it is actually very interesting. It’s well worth making a trip if you have never been and want to head for somewhere a little different.

Final Thoughts on Iceland.

2009-03-24T16:13:00.001Z

I wasn’t sure what to expect from Iceland and it really is a unique place. It certainly isn’t for everyone and the weather can be very hostile even if you have taken proper precautions. However, it’s certainly a must see destination for anyone who likes mountains, lakes and rugged landscapes.

The lava fields are incredible and Gullfoss falls and the Geyser fields are truly astounding. It’s also a great place to relax with the Blue Lagoon being one of the most tranquil and beautiful places I have ever been.

I would urge caution for anyone planning on going there and renting a car to travel around. Outside of Reykjavik can be very dangerous. The country has regular earthquakes and volcanic eruptions and fissures and hot springs burst through the earth on an almost daily basis.

It is incredibly important to pay attention to any warning signs you see. Every year tourists get in trouble because they drive up closed roads or jump into hot springs without realising the dangers. You must respect your environment here or you will get hurt.

On the brighter note there has never been a better time to go. Due to its financial collapse the ISK has taken a bit of a pounding and works out at good value against the pound. Food can be found at reasonable prices as well. Make sure you don’t need to buy clothes though as a simple bobble hat will set you back around forty-five pounds.

Tourism is about the only strong industry left in the country. Despite Gordon Brown implementing a terrorism act against them we found everyone relieved that people were in the country spending money. If you really want to get on their good side then buy one of the many ‘Brown is colour of poo’ T-shirts that fill the shops on the high street.

Language is also not a major problem with most Icelandic people speaking English better than we do. I found the people to have a wonderfully dry sense of humour and be very welcoming. Iceland is also one of the cheaper options if you are looking to try and see the Northern Lights. If you are looking for a real adventure in Europe then this could well be the place for you.

I was guided safely around Iceland by Travelsphere.

Entering the Land of Fire and Ice: Gullfoss and Geyser.

2009-03-24T15:43:00.016Z

Earlier, at the parliament lake we had noticed a large cloud beginning to dominate the sky. Now we were driving towards it and it wouldn’t be long before the clear blue would be gone.

We drove further and further up into the mountains until all the ground around us was covered in snow and ice. The sky had clouded over but it wasn’t as bad as I had feared and couldn’t mask the beauty of our surroundings.

After a long drive we arrived at the Gullfoss waterfall. Here, the Hvita River gushes over a double drop to create a two level cascade. It was very cold and the powerful spray coming off the falls was freezing.

Gullfoss, was one of the things I had come on the trip to see. Unfortunately, the steep path down to the falls was frozen and with only a rope barrier to hold onto my girlfriend and I decided against getting to close.

We admired the falls from a distance for as long as the temperature would allow us before we retreated to a nearby restaurant. It was bugging me that from wherever we stood I couldn’t get a clear view into the valley.

I was determined to see where the water was flowing so decided to do something stupid. Heading back to the falls I began to traverse the slippery slope down to it. My girlfriend almost lost her bag and decided to give up. Clinging on to the guide rope for dear life and losing my footing with every step I made it to the bottom. Looking down into the valley was amazing.

Getting back up the slippery slope was exhausting but in the end I made it. Our next destination was the Strokkur Geyser which erupts around every five minutes. Before entering the Geyser field we were warned that people have fallen into the boiling hot pools and to be very careful.

Strokkur is an amazing site as it launches huge jets of water up into the air. Just before each launch a perfectly clear bubble of mineral water forms on its surface. The cold weather means that area around it is often icy and I almost slipped and lost my gloves into the thing. It is also, normally, surrounded by people trying to take pictures and you have to be quick to catch it.

It’s important to make sure you know which way the wind is blowing before you head towards Strokkur. The best thing to do is watch it erupt from a safe distance first. Otherwise you will end up getting covered in water.

As well as Strokkur there are a number of other interesting pools in the Geyser fields. Most of these are boiling hot and contain different coloured water with one blue and one green pool being no more than a few centimetres apart. The different water colouration comes from the pools being formed from water coming from different depths under the ground.

We survived the Geyser field and headed back up into the mountains. After a short stop at the nearby geothermal energy plant, to see how Iceland harnesses the power of its surroundings, we headed back.

This effectively brought an end to our journey in the land of fire and ice. In the morning we would be heading to the airport and back home. The snow fell in the night which gave Reykjavik a pretty white glow. It seemed a nice way to remember it.

Entering the Land of Fire and Ice: Venturing into the Golden Circle.

2009-03-23T16:43:00.013Z

Today, we would be heading into Iceland’s famous Golden circle. It’s within the circle that most of the natural wonders of the country can be found. These include the numerous snow covered mountains, giant lakes, water falls and geysers. Our first destination was the pingvellir national park where in 930AD the Alpingi parliament was established.

On the way to our historic destination we stopped to take a look at the impressive mountain ranges. The mountains in Iceland are easily the most impressive panoramic spectacle I have ever come across.

Taking in the huge scale was difficult enough for my eyes and a picture certainly can’t convey anything close to the true grandeur of the peaks. You have to see them for yourself to get real sense of the scale.

The sun was still shining brightly as we arrived at the parliament lake area. Here you can walk down into a massive rift in the earth where the American and European tectonic plates are gradually moving apart.

The lake area was incredibly beautiful. Water cascades down from a number of small waterfalls and creates channels through the frozen areas of water. Behind the lake the landscape rolls away to far off hills and mountains.

We walked along the rift taking in the glorious sunshine and views. At the far end you can get close to one of the small waterfalls that filter down to the lake. I stood there for a while just watching the water gently flow through its frozen surroundings. There is a lot of history around this area of Iceland but I was much more interested in its scenery. It's just so breath taking and epic.

Eventually we emerged from the other side of the rift and it was time to head off across the mountains to the Gullfoss falls. Unfortunately, this meant driving towards the rather ominous clouds that were forming on the horizon.

Entering the Land of Fire and Ice: Braving the Night for the Northern Lights.

2009-03-17T20:19:00.000Z

The chances of seeing the Northern Lights had been poor all week. The activity level was low and weather, for the most part, was cloudy. Tonight however, there was a small chance that the lights would be visible. My girlfriend and I decided it was a chance worth taking and dressed in as many clothes as we could before heading off to chase after them in a rather big bus.

We were driven out into the icy, snow covered wastes away from Reykjavik and into the pitch black. Our first stop arrived and the bus unloaded. Looking up at the sky in the middle of the night out in the wastes was as cold as you might think. With the sky completely clear we looked up and around but could not spot the lights.

Even though we couldn’t see the lights the sky was alive with constellations of pretty stars. We were quite happy watching the stars but, after about an hour, it was time to move on and try to track down the lights somewhere else. Not far down the road we pulled over again. Once more, we all piled off the bus to see very feint Northern Lights up in the sky.

Unfortunately, there was a little light here and a number of stupid people trying to take pictures of the sky with flash photography. This didn’t lend itself to the best place for viewing but we decided to persevere. Once the penny finally dropped that the flash didn’t work we settled in and as our eyes gradually adjusted a curtain of light appeared.

It wasn’t as spectacular as some of the displays you see on television but with such low activity predicted we were happy to see anything at all. The curtain of green began to grow and spread across the sky. Another curtain began to form next to it and for twenty minutes or so they hung in the air shimmering.

Suddenly, the curtain seemed to fall to the ground like a large roll of cloth unravelling. We were incredibly lucky to not only see the lights but to also get an ‘event’. Many people had decided to go back and hide in the warmth of the bus and completely missed it. After the ‘event’, the lights began to disperse and it was decided to return to Reykjavik. On our journey back the long green curtain was still visible across the sky and it seemed to follow us back.

Our journey into the wastes in search of the Northern Lights had proved fruitful and we were glad we had taken the chance. It’s almost impossible to take pictures of the phenomenon without having a super powered camera on a tripod using a half hour exposure time, so if you want to see it for yourself you’ll just have to go.

Entering the Land of Fire and Ice: Through the Lava Fields to the Blue Lagoon.

2009-03-16T17:17:00.027Z

Day three in Iceland and the rain had finally stopped. I was especially glad that the weather was a dryer today as we would be heading out into the countries more rugged and dangerous areas in one of the specially designed all terrain vehicles.

The first port of call for our exploration into the wilds of Iceland was at one of the many black sand beaches along the coastline. This particular beach was used in the film ‘Flags of Our Father’.

The black sand dunes created a suitable dramatic effect and the juxtaposition against the crystal clear sea and snow, which was beginning to fall, gave the whole place a kind of unique beauty not easily found anywhere else.

With the snow fall gentle, but gradually getting heavier, we headed for a nearby crater. After a short climb my girlfriend and I stood at the top of one of the many volcanic mounds that litter the landscape.

Inside the crater different kinds of volcanic rock littered the floor and my girlfriend pointed out the different shades of rich reds and dark browns to me (Being partially colour blind I took her word for it).

Looking from the top of the crater across the moon-like terrain it was like being on another planet. Iceland may be cold and harsh but it also has rich and dramatic landscape.

After returning from the crater without slicing myself to bits we were meant to be heading to some of the thermal pools that are present all over the country. However, the road to them had been closed due to new fissures and vents of hot steam opening up and making the place far too dangerous.

This acted as a reminder as to just how unpredictable and treacherous it can be out in the wilds. Many reckless tourists end up injured every year in Iceland as they underestimate the power and threat of the ever-changing volcanic landscape.

With some time to spare we headed through the fishing village of Grindavik on the way to the Blue Lagoon. The village is an incredibly ugly place and as the harbour was quiet there was little reason to stay for long. Soon we were off towards today’s main event.

The Blue Lagoon is a remarkably beautiful place. The water is blue due to the combination of minerals it filters through on its way to the surface. These minerals and natural clays are incredibly good for your skin.

After solving the puzzle of just how the electronic arms tags operate the lockers in the Blue Lagoon changing area, I walked out and almost died from being hit by a minus five degree wind. I tried to take some pictures.

Taking the hint from nearly freezing to death, I realised it would have been smarter to come out fully clothed to take the pictures. Finally, I dropped into the embrace of the warm waters. The lagoon is a wonderfully soothing place to float around in. The stones on the bottom of are smooth and the surrounding landscape is stunning. It's a beautiful place.

I could have stayed in the cloudy waters forever and while drifting around watching the steam rise and snowfall I couldn’t think of anywhere else I would have preferred to be. It was easy to drift in the gentle water.

The Blue Lagoon also served as the meeting point for the random Dutchman who seems to always turn up abroad. Floating by we exchanged jokes on bicycles and mused about why there is a Dutchman at every location.

We left the warm waters of and started on the short walk through the nearby lava fields. Here the blue waters intermingle with the rough volcanic rock and occasional fissures bubble away. As pretty as it was I couldn’t help but wish I was back in the lagoon instead of out in the freezing wind. Our journey through the lava filed came to an end and we headed back to Reykjavik.

Seeing the Blue Lagoon is essential for anyone visiting Iceland. I would quite happily come back to the country and be content to spend all my time just floating around admiring the surroundings. Tomorrow would bring more dramatic landscape as we headed into Iceland’s golden circle in search of waterfalls, mountains and geysers and tonight we would be trying to find the Northern Lights.

Entering the Land of Fire and Ice: Reykjavik in the Rain.

2009-03-08T13:13:00.021Z

It was 7am, cold and still raining. I was glad that today would be spent touring Reykjavik as the conditions did not lend themselves to exploring Iceland’s rugged terrain. It may not be the most ornate of cities but Reykjavik it is still a very interesting place to look around.

One thing you are guaranteed to find anywhere in the country is swimming pools. Swimming is the national sport and most of population swim before and after work. Because of the dangerous nature of the landscape all children must learn two different types of swimming as part of their curriculum. All the heated pools in Reykjavik are of an exceptional standard.

Travelling away from the pools and out of the city we went to see some Icelandic horses. These are another of countries institutions with no area in the country, no matter how poor, not having stables.

Heading back into the city we went down to take a look at the main harbour. It has a remarkable view of the mountains and many restaurants situated along it. You can also take sea life viewing trips.

I was enjoying the exploration into Icelandic life but the horizontal rain and howling wind on the harbour meant I couldn’t stay there for long. Icelandic fisherman are made of tougher stuff no doubt.

Of more interest to me was looking at the older area of the city. Here there is a mixture of buildings made in various Scandinavian styles. Some are made of wood but as trees don’t really grow in Iceland it has to be imported. If you look closely you will find that the houses are covered in corrugated steel. This protects the wood underneath and stops it rotting away.

Walking down through the old buildings we came out in the square next to the countries parliament. It was here that not very long ago the people rallied and pretty much overthrew the government after the countries financial collapse. Some of the windows are still smashed and they act as a reminder to current, temporary, government not make the same mistakes.

After a short stop to feed the ducks at the nearby lake we moved on to see the cities giant church. Unfortunately, the huge tower for which it gained it’s fame was in scaffolding but still posed an ominous presence and can be seen from pretty much anywhere in the city.

It looks better on the inside. Giant arches lend it a type of magical quality that helps you forget that the place is built out of poor quality concrete. An organist was playing and showed the church also had good acoustics.

Undoubtedly, the best place to go to get a picturesque view of the city is the giant hot water tank known as the Pearl. Walking out onto the viewing platform is to experience an amazing panoramic view.

No camera or video can ever do justice to something of such a grand scale. These type of panoramic views are present all over the country and the golden circle I would visit a few days later was even more breathtaking.

I stood admiring the view of the city leading up to the mountains beyond for as long as I could. Eventually the wind and rain got the better of me and I had to retreat inside to regain the feeling in my hands.

Leaving the Pearl concluded the short trip around the city. Reykjavik certainly is an interesting place and it has many buildings designed to look unique. However, it does look a bit grey as much of the place is built out of concrete. If you visit make sure to take a trip to the Pearl though. The views from the top are truly amazing and it’s something that could be easily missed.

Entering the Land of Fire and Ice: First Impressions of Iceland.

2009-03-05T20:26:00.005Z

Coming down through the clouds into Keflavik airport I wasn’t really surprised to see it was raining. Though rain does seem to follow me around the world, it wasn’t the biggest stretch of the imagination to think it might be a bit wet in Iceland at the end of winter.

Airport departed, it was time to take the short trip to Hotel Reykjavik. I was looking forward to being settled in one place for this trip. In China we had been moving on every few days and it soon became tiring. Bounding up to the desk to get the room key it seemed we were not on the list. A few minutes later, with everything resolved we went up to dump cases and get ready to explore the city.

It’s important to note that you can’t get Icelandic Krona outside of the country due to its financial collapse. It’s also important to note that the hotel desks exchange at a fraction of the real rate and that banks shut at 4pm. As I was unwilling to exchange money at 135 to the pound instead of 165 we wandered off and tried to think of some other way to get Krona.

At this moment my girlfriend and I both realised that neither of us had told our banks we were going away. It was a choice of trying out the credit card (which everyone, even hotdog sellers, will take.), or trying the cash machine. In the end we decide the machine was the best option and it didn’t eat the card so all was well.

With new found wealth we wandered in to the city looking for cheap food. Reykjavik’s main street is littered with decent looking restaurants but check the prices. Walking along we noticed a road leading down to the water and A brief detour was made. After negotiating the odd traffic system, we had a magnificent view across the water to the imposing mountains the other side.

Walking along by the waterfront it struck me just how incredibly cold it was and despite the magnificent scenery we had to head back to the main street before rain assisted hypothermia set in. The mountains gave a hint at some of the magnificent scenery we would be seeing in the next few days. A decent (and cheap) meal found we headed back to the hotel with good, if slightly frozen, first impressions.

Final Thoughts on China and Travelsphere

2009-02-21T17:59:00.001Z

China truly is an amazing country. It is also a country that is changing at a remarkable pace. While I was there I found out that the country is implementing masses of new ideas and policies to help protect its wildlife and people.

New health care systems are being implemented, the taxes and restriction on farmers are being reduced to help keep people in agricultural jobs and on the whole it is a remarkably optimistic place.

The countries view of animals is also on the change. The importance of protecting its endangered species such as pandas has never been higher on the agenda. Attitudes towards the rights of animals are also changing. In Chengdu it was clear that people had altered how they thought animals should be treated and initiatives are being started to change views across the country.

Anyone visiting China will find a rich and friendly country. When I first arrived I was a little apprehensive as to how we would be treated by the locals. However, the best experiences I had were when we walked off the tourist trail and met people. Walking around the Chengdu back streets, taking the Rickshaw through Suzhou and heading into the older district of Chongqing gave me a view of the country that could so easily have been missed. I urge anyone who visits to do the same and go and meet the local people.

Travelsphere, the company I went with, were also excellent. They provided a tour guide and a different local guide for each place. All of our guides were excellent and clearly loved their cities. Special mention has to go to Rebecca in Chengdu and Chris in Beijing who really put in that extra effort. The tour manager, Bernie, also did an excellent job throughout to keep everything running smoothly which can’t have been easy.

I also have to say that all the hotels we stayed in were excellent with the staff always willing to help. I can’t really think of any reason not to recommend someone to come to China. It is one of the few places you can visit and still see a completely different way of life. China is quite simply the most amazing place I have ever been.

Travelling with Travelsphere also makes it incredibly straightforward and stress free as you have someone to guide you around and take you through airports and security checks. I don’t think I could have got around the country on my own, but anybody could see the wonders of this great country fairly easily going with Travelsphere. I can’t recommend the country and company enough.

I explored China with Travelsphere.

Heading for the Great Wall

2009-02-21T17:37:00.016Z

Thankfully, the freezing weather had reverted to being merely crisp and the sky was still as clear as could be. This was, without doubt, a perfect day to visit the Great Wall.

We would be heading for the wall in the afternoon but first up was a visit to the Ming Tombs. The museum part of the tombs was pretty standard fare and I soon wandered off to look around the grounds.

Behind the museum building was the main tomb. This was much more impressive and surprisingly high. I stopped to look at the assorted junk on sale. Picking up a piece of fake jade the seller told me it was cold and so had to be real. I replied to him that the temperature was just above freezing so of course the fake jade was going to be cold. he laughed and waved me away.

I walked up the steps of the tomb to be greeted with a stunning view of the nearby mountains. Rolling hills and blue sky’s gave the first hint of what we were going to experience when we reached the Great Wall later in the day.

Our last stop before reaching the wall was the Avenue of Statues. Its name pretty much tells you what to expect. It’s an incredibly long avenue with amazing statues running along both sides and wonderfully coloured trees hanging over. It was remarkably empty when we arrived and I ran off to get some pictures before our group started walking down it and got in the way.

The expertly carved statues range from Chinese warriors to various types of animals such as horses, elephants and Chinese lions. At the end of the avenue is a giant turtle with a lions head. Rubbing the creatures head is said to bring good luck. Walking down the avenue was a real highlight as trees and statues combined to created a wonderfully picturesque place.

Now it was time to go to the wall. It’s hard to put into words just how incredibly breathtaking the Great Wall of China is. You really can’t have any idea about the scale of the thing until the see it for yourself.

We arrived at the Badaling section of it and proceeded to take the more difficult of the two paths. Aside from a friendly Chinese couple we were the only people on the difficult section of the wall. I stopped and looked back towards the other section and noticed the hundreds of people all crawling along it. Into the distance it went like a great dragon.

Standing on the Great Wall with my girlfriend and not seeing another soul was one of the best and most unexpected experiences I have had. I just never imagined a section of the wall could be so empty.

After having enough of the steep climb up the difficult section of the wall we retraced our steps and headed up the part filled with tourists. It took longer to move along due to the mass of people but was no less impressive.

After reaching the eighth watch tower we decided to head back as the sun was going down and time was beginning to run short. As the light dropped so did the temperature and the wall was cast into shadow. We made it to the coach and watched as the sun set behind the wall. It seemed a poignant end to our Chinese adventure.

I explored the Great Wall with Travelsphere.

Freezing in Magnificent Beijing: Part 2

2009-02-21T17:19:00.018Z

Rising up from the underpass in Tian-An-Men Square, the incredibly cold hit me once more. A poor Chinese soldier seemed to be feeling it as well as he stood shivering on a box. Interestingly, most of the population of China don’t know that the Tian-An-Men Square massacre ever happened. The public were told that no one was hurt and the pictures weren’t broadcast.

There isn’t much you can say about the place apart from that it’s big and square. We headed off to wander around but didn’t far. there aren't many young Western girls in China and my girlfriend was attracting attention.

It started with a couple of Chinese girls grabbing her and dragging her off for a photograph. While this was happening a line formed nearby of others who wanted a picture. It was a very strange thing to witness.

Eventually I got her back from the adoring masses and used the opportunity to have one of her fans take a picture of the two us. We continued to walk around asthe wind blew strongly across the open square.

Back on the coach, and out of the cold, it was time to go to the 800 year old Summer Palace. The grounds of the palace are absolutely enormous. It also contains one of the largest man made lakes in the world.

The sun began to warm up the ground and the freezing temperature subsided. We followed the famous painted corridor along to the much heralded boat carved out of marble. Both of these are breath taking works of art but I was much more interested in the giant temple reaching high into the clouds. Unfortunately, I didn’t have the chance to see it close up.

It didn’t really matter though as every aspect of the Summer Palace is stunning. It’s just such an amazing achievement to think that it was ever built. Hopefully I will get the chance to go back to it one day.

The evening brought the return of the freezing weather and a visit to a house in one of the older districts. Here we shared tea and talked about what it was like to live in fast developing Beijing. It was interesting but my mind was already turning to the next day. Tomorrow we would be visiting the Great Wall.

I explored Beijing with Travelsphere.

Freezing in Magnificent Beijing: Part 1

2009-02-21T16:54:00.020Z

Most of the time during my adventure in China the weather had been warm and humid. In Beijing it was bright, sunny and absolutely freezing. The drop in temperature was a real shock to system. Suddenly I was glad that I remembered to bring gloves.

The day started with a short visit Beijing Zoo to see the pandas. We ran to the enclosures as quickly as we could. Pandas are morning creatures so most of them were out and a large group of youngsters was busy playing.

While the majority of our group stayed looking at the youngsters I walked around to see if any of the other pandas were outside. In a nearby enclosure an enormous male panda, who we named Dave, was busy wandering around, finding food and generally being lazy. Dave the panda was certainly the cleanest bear I had seen so far. He seemed to be too mature to roll around in the mud.

We left Dave to his wandering and headed for the Forbidden City. The city is an amazing piece of work. It contains just under a thousand rooms and some of the most incredible architecture I had seen in China.

Even though it was winter the gardens were still wonderful with a mixture of impressive pagodas, rocks and winter vegetation. Certain rooftops even had fine symbolic figures carved into them.

We moved through to the living quarters were the last young emperor would have played (Watch the film ‘The Last Emperor’), and out into one of the many enormous courtyards. The weather continued to get colder.

Our journey through the city reached the great gate and we passed through and out, under a portrait of Chairman Mao, into Tian-An-Men Square. The place was heaving with visiting Chinese tourists taking pictures.

The main square is separated from the Forbidden City by a very busy road. The only way to reach it safely was from a nearby underpass. We excitedly rushed along to get to the other aside.

I explored Beijing with Travelsphere.

Drifitng Down the Yangtze: Part 2

2009-02-21T16:31:00.018Z

It was around 7am and cold. Still, we had to get up because this was the time that we would be reaching the first of the three Yangtze gorges. After adding layers of clothes and water proof’s we walked out of the cabin and into the gloom of outside.

With the rain pounding down, the sun still rising and the mist thick the ship was reaching Xiling Gorge. Xiling is the gorge you will see in all the promotional pictures and adverts relating to cruising down the Yangtze. Unfortunately, due to the water level rising, it has lost some of its scale and is no longer quite so impressive. It's still far from shabby though.

Later that day we reached Wuxia Gorge. The entrance to the gorge was less impressive than Xiling but the landscape was much more dramatic. I ran from one of the ship to the other trying to take it all in. Any disappointment over the first gorge was quickly forgotten in this rugged landscape. Two gorges passed through we stopped by a smaller tributary.

Here we transferred into smaller boats and headed up towards Shennong Stream. Arriving at the entrance to the stream we moved to even smaller fishing boats and, under the power of ores, our journey began.

The Shennong Stream is a remarkably beautiful and serene place with its caves and rolling hills. Being in boats (barely) floating so close to the water made the experience all the more magical. Every now and then a race would break out between the different boats. Our oarsmen were by far the best and beat every challenger with our chants of encouragement.

One final race proved to be a step to far for our little wooden boat. The rudder literally came away in one of the oarsman’s hands and we drifted back to the dock.The adventure over, we headed back to the cruise ship.

Later that night we passed through the Three Gorges Damn. Moving into the massive locks was certainly impressive. It seemed to swallow us up like some huge, man made, sea monster.

Slowly, we sunk down to each new water level. The enormous scale of the thing coupled with the darkness and flood lights reflecting off the water created a suitably epic end to our journey along the great river.

In the morning we departed and after a brief tour of the damn, with a guide who had the most irritating voice I have ever heard, we started a day long coach ride to the airport. Once aboard, it was time to fly to the capital city of Beijing.

I drifted down the Yangtze with Travelsphere.

Drifitng Down the Yangtze: Part 1

2009-02-21T16:18:00.014Z

Early in the morning our ship began its three day voyage down the great Yangtze River. It was misty but dry and most of us were looking forward to a few days at a slower pace. It’s worth saying that even though the river level has risen quite substantially there it still retains a certain grandeur.

For most of the day I sat on the top deck just watching the scenery as we passed by. Huge cities rolled off into the distance, hills climbed away from the water and small settlements seemed to hang perilously close to the river.

Every now and then we would pass under huge bridges still under construction. It made me wonder what would happen when they met if one side had been built slightly off centre from the other.

Later that day we docked at a small settlement and headed off for a supposed haunted temple. The legend goes that if you are a bad person the ghost will appear to you while in the grounds. I felt the risk was minimal.

The weather was humid and it was a long way up to the temple, so my girlfriend and I decided to take the cable car. The temple itself was quite sinister and had many statues which at first seemed fine, but on closer inspection were quite hideous. I never worked out if the statues were meant to act like gargoyles and scare away evil spirits or if they were some kind of warning.

With much of the temple rebuilt it also lacked some of the charm we had found in the genuinely ancient sites around the country. There were still plenty things to look at though. A pagoda at the top of the hill was particularly impressive and housed and effigy of the man said to haunt the temple. It also served as the location to give me an unexpected fright.

While stopping for a picture near the pagoda we heard an incredibly loud explosion. Having got back up from the floor and wondering what had caused it we turned to see smoke rising from a nearby quarry.

The light was fading and we walked back down the steps to the boat. There was no denying that as the darkness drew in it was an incredibly eerie place. I managed to get back on the boat without being approached by the ghost so everything was fine. Early the next morning we would be heading through the first of the Yangtze’s three gorges so it seemed wise to try and get some sleep

I drifted down the Yangtze with Travelsphere.

A Busy Day in the Misty Mountains of Chongqing: Part 2

2009-02-20T22:31:00.009Z

With the sun set we left the boat and headed into the midst of the neon lit city. Chongqing was proving to be a surprisingly vibrant and interesting place and I couldn’t wait to see what was next.

We made our way to the People’s Square. Here thousands of locals gathered every night to practice Tai Chi and ballroom dancing. People were gathered as far as the eye could see in the relatively low lit square.

Another difference between Chinese and Western culture struck me as I walked around the square. In the gloom I noticed numerous bags put to one side with no one watching them. You couldn't do that in the UK.

I walked all the way to back of the giant square and stood at the bottom of the steps of the convention centre. It was almost pitch black at this end and I soon hurried back when I noticed a woman entranced in sword Tai-Chi, twirling blades around her, clearly hadn’t noticed me and seemed to be heading a little too close for comfort.

Captivated by such a large public display of rhythm I stood and watched the thousands of people all having a good time together. It was amazing to think that in a city containing 32 million people there seemed to be such a sense of community.

After the Peoples Square came another type of square. We went to the main shopping district which is modelled heavily on Time Square. This was the only place in China that I came across the mass of neon that many people associate with Eastern cities such as Tokyo. It was filled with fashion shops and Western junk food places. Many of the group headed off for a burger.

I was more interested in just walking around taking in the lights. My girlfriend once again gave in to the lure of pretty tops and it was soon time to head back to the boat. Back on board we sat on the top deck.

The giant neon buildings stretched along the waterfront. At 10pm all the lights in Chongqing are turned off to save electricity. As we watched each tower fall into darkness it seemed a fitting way to say goodnight to a remarkable city.

I explored Chongqing with Travelsphere.

A Busy Day in the Misty Mountains of Chongqing: Part 1

2009-02-20T21:53:00.019Z

I wasn’t expecting much from my day in Chongqing. Even though it had a population of 32 million people I had never heard of the city and as far as I knew we were just heading there to get on a boat that would take us down the Yangtze River.

It proved to be an incredibly busy day. In the morning we visited the Yangtze museum situated in Eling park. We were told about the Yangtze project and shown how the flooding of the river had changed areas along its bank for both better and worse. It was genuinely illuminating.

Walking back down the incredibly steep park (it is in the mountains after all) we came across a couple of incredible ponds. The pools have vegetation planted around them that when it drops its seeds change the colour of the water.

This created incredibly vibrant and natural colours. Add in a couple of ornate bridges and it created something of subtle beauty and real invention. It's amazing what can be achieved with a little bit of invention.

Colourful ambience appreciated we were heading for the city Monorail. It proved to be fun being packed in tightly with the local population. Many said hello it seemed we were creating a bit of a buzz.

Destination reached, we departed the train and descended down the steep steps into backstreets of the Chongqing old town district. It was fascinating to see how some of the poorer people went about their lives.

The back streets had an amazing atmosphere about them. Various kinds of Chinese dumplings, ducks, eels, clothes and produce from the various fruit and vegetable stalls were all on display.

The backstreets did look poor but this was far from some kind of slum. It’s true that the people didn’t seem to have much but they were incredibly warm, friendly and interested in interacting with us.

Our adventure into the backstreets complete we headed for our boat. However, the day was not over as a night time tour awaited.

I explored Chongqing with Travelsphere.

Chengdu and the Shadow of the Earthquake: Part 3

2009-02-20T21:23:00.025Z

The next day brought a visit to the San Xingdui Museum in the morning. Our guide, Rebecca, had then arranged for us to go to Jinli Street in Chengdu. She seemed excited about us going here as normally people just pass through the city on the way to the mountains.

The museum was interesting and is built on a site where Mayan style artefacts have been found. This has caused a big stir in the Chinese scientific community as it brings about questions of how life evolved here.

There were lots of pots, masks and other ancient artefacts. It’s somewhere that's worth a visit if you are interested in objects displayed behind glass. There was also an excellent guided tour available for those wishing to know all the details and theories about what they found. As interesting as it was I was happy to leave and get back to mixing with the Chinese public.

Jinli Street proved to be a real delight. It is reminiscent, in some respects, to Shanghai’s Old Town area. As well as the standard shops there were also many street traders and numerous wonderful food smells.

One man was creating animals by blowing into candy much like a glass blower would. I wasn't brave enough to eat candy animals someone had been blowing into I continued down the bustling street.

This was an area where it was clear that not many Westerners come and that made it all the better. I really loved getting these glimpses of the real China and it’s something I would urge anyone visiting to do. Just take a step away from tourist trail and you will find some truly wonderful things. Something you come to realise about China is that everything is made with an attention to detail.

Here I was in a simply shopping street and yet all the buildings were beautifully designed and there was even a beautiful water area in a small square. When it comes to art and anything ornate it has to be perfect.

Beside Jinli Street was the Wuhou Shrine. Most of the group were concerned with buying trinkets from the markets but my girlfriend and I worked out how to buy a ticket and decided to go in search of some tranquillity.

The shrine proved to be one of the best surprises of the trip. It was different to the gardens we had already seen and was still very much in use by worshippers and monks. The many sections contained interesting architecture, mostly revolving around circles and long passage ways, with large areas dedicated to the most amazing bonsai tree dioramas.

One particularly stunning piece of the shrine was a long red tunnel which had trees growing high above it and arching over forming a natural roof. We walked around the place several times trying to take in the elegance and ambition of it. It was odd to think if it wasn’t for the earthquake that we would never have had the chance to visit the place. We found it very hard to leave.

The morning would bring the flight to the mountain city of Chongqing but I would have been happy to stay in Chengdu for much longer.

I explored Chengdu with Travelsphere.

Chengdu and the Shadow of the Earthquake: Part 2

2009-02-20T20:59:00.020Z

Next morning and after one of our group was late to the coach, causing us to get stuck in heavy traffic, we were on our way to the mountains. On the way our lovely guide Rebecca, who’s Chinese name translated as ‘rainbow’, told us that after the earthquake it was now unknown how many wild pandas were left. She also made it very clear that in this region animal cruelty is on the decline and that anyone who kills a panda will be given the death sentence.

Chengdu began to give way to rolling farmland and misty mountains and eventually we started to ascend to the panda reserve high above Ya’an. The mist was thick and the rain was the kind that soaks you through in several seconds. However, we were in the mountains of one of the most humid regions in the country so it wasn’t exactly unexpected.

The landscape was stunning and suitably dramatic. After surviving the ordeal of the coach being swung around the stupidly small roads (with a shear drop on one side) we reached 1800 feet and it was time to see some Pandas.

As soon as the coach stopped my girlfriend and I went bounding off leaving everyone behind. Reaching the first habitat an adult Panda had duly set about stripping a piece of bamboo. They really are magnificent creatures and though they look cute and cuddly I wouldn’t want to be on the receiving end of their razor sharp claws. They are also very fast and excellent climbers.

It was feeding time and keepers went into the various areas with leaves and fruit. A panda in the habitat began to stir and wander over for its lunch. Another decided he wanted his own food and climbed up a tree to find some.

Our guide took us around to where some new born cubs were being monitored. We could only see them through thick glass and flash photography was strictly forbidden as it can blind them when they are so young.

Ya’an is linked to the Wolong Panda Reserve and after the earthquake they took in a large number of the bears. As a result massive construction was under way to make room for all the new arrivals. Male pandas need a lot of space and if put together will fight once they reach adulthood. The sudden influx of Pandas from Wolong had clearly put strain on this much smaller centre, but it was clear the problem was being sorted out as quickly as possible.

We went to see some of the rescued pandas living in a different part of the reserve. Some of them were still nervous about what had happened and either hid away or tried to climb as far off of the ground as they could. Our guide explained that the keepers take a very soft approach towards these bears so not to cause them undue stress.

The highlight of the day was when some of us were lucky enough to actually sit next to a young panda and feed him. The 18 month old bear named Hua ao wasn’t particularly interested in me. He sat eating his leaves and only really turned to me when he had run out of food. In all I must have spent around five minutes with him but it is something that will stay with me for a long time.

Time was up and we begrudgingly started the long walk to the coach. My girlfriend and I said goodbye to every panda along the way before we finally made it through the gates to the outside world.

I explored Chengdu and Ya'an with Travelsphere.

Chengdu and the Shadow of the Earthquake: Part 1

2009-02-20T20:44:00.005Z

The next part my exploration of China had been changed quite substantially from the one I had intended to do. Originally I was planning to head to the panda reserve at Wolong. Unfortunately the earthquake had completely destroyed the reserve and killed many of its staff.

The city of Chengdu had not suffered any major damage but almost everyone here knew someone who had been killed or injured in close by towns and settlements. Indeed, only a few miles away a town had been completely destroyed. After the earthquake the population of Chengdu had slept on the streets in tents for weeks with many too afraid to go inside their houses.

After reaching the beautiful Tibet Hotel I was determined that now we were actually staying in the city (instead of merely passing through on the way to Wolong), that I was going to explore it. The city is somewhat of a hidden gem.

Walking around the streets revealed a vibrant and friendly people who seemed to be proud that I was taking the time to see them go about their lives. There aren’t many lights in Chengdu but at no time did I feel threatened.

The friendly atmosphere seemed to be spread right across the city. People gathered outside office buildings for evening Tai Chi, danced in groups in the streets and played Mahjong in bars, all the time waving and smiling as I went about my exploration.

I have never been in a place before where the people seemed to be so happy that someone from the outside had taken the time to simply look around. I had this feeling a few times in China but it was never stronger than here. Despite, or maybe because of the earthquake I found Chengdu to be one of the friendliest places I visited. If I lived in China it would be here.

Eventually I left the warm welcome of the back streets and headed back to the Hotel. Tomorrow was a real highlight as we would be heading up into the mountains to the Panda reserve at Ya’an.

I explored Chengdu with Travelsphere.

Xi'an and the Aircraft Egg: Part 2

2009-02-20T01:24:00.018Z

The draining event of yesterday over, it was nearly time to say goodbye to china’s ancient capital. Before leaving though there were a couple of places left to visit.

First up was the Wild Goose Pagoda that towered over the park which surrounded it. There are two goose pagodas in Xi’an. The older one, which we went to see, was damaged by an earthquake hundreds of years ago and as a result many of the floors are inaccessible and the roof has crumbled. Because of this a new pagoda was built for those who wish to worship there.

Around the base of the pagoda people were gathered to partake in a morning routine of exercise and Tai-Chi. The various groups, each with their own style, were all friendly and inviting if you had the courage to join in.

Some simply performed to music while others tried to keep balls on a ping pong racket or danced with swords.I couldn’t imagine thirty people in London walking the streets with swords and going to a park to exercise together.

The grounds of the pagoda was one of the most peaceful places I have ever been. There was such an air of calmness and gentility that it seemed some magical force was protecting it from all the ills of the outside world.

The ceremonial bell inside the grounds rang, the people moved off to work and it was time for us to move on once more. The last stop before the airport was the local jade factory.

In China jade is worth more than gold.You can tell if jade is real by putting it in the palm of your hand. If the jade warms up then it's fake. Jade should always be cold and not warm up. The colder it is the better the quality.

We went on many tours of factories in China (many of which are designed to relieve you of money), but it was well worth seeing some of the magnificent craftsmanship and detail they put into the sculptures and jewellery.

All that was left was head to the airport. We left the home of the Terracotta Army behind and jetted off into the earthquake hit Sichuan basin and Panda country.

I explored Xi'an with Travelsphere.

Xi'an and the Aircraft Egg: Part 1

2009-02-19T12:53:00.015Z

Sometimes you do something stupid without realising it. Today was my turn and the location was the plane carrying me from Shanghai to Xi’an. For some reason at this time, on this day, the half a hard-boiled egg sitting in front of me on the in-flight food tray, despite being slightly brown, heavily salted and a bit crystallised, looked perfectly fine and I ate it.

We arrived in Xi’an and boarded the next coach. Our new guide was clearly crazy. He told us to call him Spencer. He had picked this because his old English teacher couldn’t pronounce Chinese names and made all the children in the class pick new ones. After the long story which relayed the origin of why it was Spencer he picked (after Spencer for Hire), we asked what his Chinese name was. He told us it was Jimmy.

It was exactly twelve hours after eating the egg that I regretted it. 3am and I had food poisoning. I spent four hours being sick before it finally subsided. This may not sound like a ringing endorsement for the city or the company I went with, but the Hotel was excellent in getting me extra water (you can’t drink tap water in China), and the Travelsphere rep looked after me very well. It’s always nice to know that should something go wrong on holiday that the people there to help you actually know what they're doing.

The alarm went off at 8am and I was not in the best shape. However, I was determined not to miss seeing the Terracotta Army due to half a hard-boiled egg. I managed to get to the coach and was then mothered by just about everyone else I encountered that day. We were heading for the warriors in the afternoon but our first stop was the ancient Xi’an city walls.

It was early and freezing. I struggled to get up the steps to the wall and became increasingly frustrated with my lack of energy. I never normally feel the cold but here I was finding it difficult. It wasn’t fun but the walls were so impressive that I’m glad that I managed to climb them. Anyone visiting Xi’an shouldn’t overlook the city walls, as they are unique and quite beautiful in their way.

After managing to climb the steps to the wall and the pagoda on top of it, I then had to get all the way back down so the coach could head for the main event. Today was clearly going to be an endurance test as when we arrived at the site it was a half hour walk to the main buildings. After passing through two security checkpoints we finally arrived at the main dig site.

I have seen pictures of warriors before but it was truly astounding just how many of these soldiers there are. It was like walking into the Indiana Jones warehouse where they keep the Lost Arc. I stood there trying to take it in.

The Terracotta Army, all with unique faces and subject to pain stacking reconstruction, stretched out into the distance. It crossed my mind that this was the largest domino display in the world waiting to happen.

As well as the main dig site there were also other buildings that contained the more unique statues that were found. Archers, horses and a lone crouching warrior are all on display in glass cases. There are also bronze works and an amazing bronze chariot to see. It is unlikely that these pieces will ever be allowed to leave China as they are so valuable.

While walking around the site the usual junk sellers appeared with boxes of replica soldiers. This started a game between everyone as we all tried to get them for the cheapest amount. The price started at 100 Yuen (about £10), three steps away from the seller and the price had dropped to 60. My girlfriend gave in and bought some, two more steps and another member of the group picked them up for 30 Yuen. By the time we had finished our tour and reached the coach the price was down to 10 Yuen for three boxes.

I explored Xi'an with Travelsphere.

Shanghai Noon Becomes Shanghai Nights: Part 4

2009-02-13T22:54:00.019Z

As the sun fell the rain stopped. Even though it had cleared away much of the smog over the last few days, it was nice to experience Shanghai without my hood up. Tonight it was time to see the city lights.

We headed for the Chinese equivalent of the space needle (only taller) to get a proper look at the city. The sky scrapers in the business district really are enormous and, having never seen a skyscraper in person before, I was stunned just how massive the things are. Equally impressive was the amount of Chinese junk sellers that had replica light up models.

At the top of the tower, thanks to all the rain clearing the pollution, you could see for miles and miles. The neon stretched as far as the eye could see and it was a truly breath taking sight. Sadly my camera couldn't cope with the reflection from the security glass. The tower itself had a long shaft inside it which went straight down a bar on one of the floors below.

Having a mild fear of heights I had to force myself to look down it. The fact I was almost lying flat on the floor with both arms held around the safety barrier didn’t help to make me feel any more secure. I got some odd looks.

Leaving the tower we headed for the Bund again. There were still sellers of assorted junk but it was a much calmer and clearer at night. For the first time I could see across the river to all the pretty lights on the other side.

For some reason I was persuaded to go on the tourist tunnel which travels under the river. It takes about ten minutes and was one of the most pointless things I have ever done. It’s a tunnel which a cable car travels along with a few flashing lights in the ceiling and some leaves and netting. Make sure to give it a miss if you come to Shanghai.

Night exploration over, it was back to the hotel to await the morning. The next day brought a beautiful sun rise over a clear Shanghai skyline. The buildings shimmered and the whole place looked completely different.

On my last day I had found the city that so many people seem to fall in love with. If I ever find myself there again I really won’t mind. All that was left was to take the super fast Magna train to the airport.

The journey didn’t take long as it hits 433 Kilometres an hour at top speed. The last piece of excitement was reserved for when a train passed going the other way, also doing 433 Kilometres, which sounded like a tank had hit the window. Nerves recovered it was time to head for the ancient city of Xi’an.

I explored Shanghai with Travelsphere.

Shanghai Noon Becomes Shanghai Nights: Part 3

2009-02-13T19:54:00.034Z

Getting up early I looked outside to see the rain was still at full strength. Today however, I would not be wandering around Shanghai. No, the adventure was to take place in a city a short distance away named Suzhou. The city is famous for its waterways and gardens. It contains three of the national gardens of China and I was going to see two of these today.

To get there I had to navigate Shanghai central station which was fairly straight forward. At the other end things were different. A surge of people poured off the train and out into the, still under construction, Suzhou station.

This meant it was almost impossible to see where I had to go. After that came the trial of getting across the eight lanes of traffic outside. Remarkably, I made it across unscathed and after the mornings excitement it was time to head for the Lingering Garden for a more peaceful experience.

The garden is much like many Chinese gardens in that it focuses heavily around the elements of stone, water, plants and buildings. It’s the way these things are combined that make it so breathlessly enchanting.

The naturally forming rocks, taken from a special lakes neaby, produce the most bizarre shapes and the way the place is so meticulously organised shows why many people do indeed linger in the Lingering Garden. It proved a nice contrast to the free for all that was the mornings train journey. Even the rain began to ease. Energy suitably restored I was ready to move on.

Next, it was time to experience the main canal route through the city. Onto the boats we went and down the river we motored. Travelling down the canall gave me a good chance to see a different side to the city. The boat passed many of the poorer areas. People waved and smiled at us as they washed their clothes in the river, all the while, maintaining a proud dignity.

Boats docked, there was still more travelling to do. This time by Rickshaw. My girlfriend and I scrambled in and we, along with some others from the group, sped off in a convoy of rickety carriages held together by tape and bits of rag.

The rickshaw was one of the best experiences I had in China. It allowed us to access hidden streets and the feeling of constant danger from the mad drivers moving straight across main roads was both terrifying and exhilarating.

It also meant that we could stop and see the local fish market and reach the incredibly well hidden opera museum. It was amazing to find such a unique building filled with colourful costumes stuck down a back street.

I walked through it, moving out into the courtyard area, and was greeted with the site of a wonderfully elegant outside stage. It turned out to be a very interesting place I wouldn't have found if not for a wobbly rickshaw.

Rickshaw fun over, we arrived at the Humble Administrators Garden. This was much bigger than the others and had a more open feel. It was also busier. There was very little peace as I took in the water features and strikingly designed buildings.

I think I preferred the Lingering garden, but that is not to say that this one isn’t a very special place. The open style and more enthusiastic use of greenery helped the garden stand out from others I had seen.

The gardens visited, canal travelled along and my bones suitably rattled by the rickshaw it was time to head back to Shanghai. After commenting on the efficiency of the trains on the way out the return journey was inevitably delayed. The train eventually arrived in Shanghai and we all departed. This was the end of the day for some but for me it was time to see Shanghai by night.

I explored Suzhou with Travelsphere.

Shanghai Noon Becomes Shanghai Nights: Part 2

2009-02-13T01:34:00.022Z

A new day brought more rain but, if anything, it added to the appeal of my next location. Today I travelled to the old town section of Shanghai. Most of Shanghai looks European having been owned by various nations over the years but Old Town Is irrepressibly Chinese.

Shanghai was proving to be a real Russian doll of a city. Hidden inside it was this wonderful area of old buildings and inside Old Town, over a zigzagging bridge that passes by an ancient tea house, was the lovely Yu Garden.

The garden is made of many different sections. The theory behind it is that evil spirits can only travel in straight lines so dividing up the garden safe guards against them. It also allows for observers to take in and appreciate each small area.

The Yu garden really is a master work and the use of stone, water, buildings and plants create something incredibly delicate, peaceful and subtle, yet painstakingly detailed and uniquely Chinese.

Garden fully appreciated and rain still falling, I headed out into the bustling narrow streets of Old Town. This was the first place that looked like the China I had in my head. The many shops created an exciting atmosphere which I easily lost myself in.

Amid the trees filled with red wishes and lanterns, street musicians provided a suitable movie soundtrack. I stood and watched as the rain drops fell from the ornate rooftops in the way they can only do in the East.

Time spent, next up was the famous Nanjing Road (China’s equivalent of Oxford Street). Now, I’m about six foot three in height and stand well above most Chinese. However, I don’t stand above their umbrellas.

Nanjing road was an assault course of dodgy brollies being aimed straight at my eye line. I managed to dodge them, along with the crazy drivers and yet more people selling junk, as I made my way down the street.

Next time you think Oxford Street is busy just take a walk down Nanjing Road. I lost my girlfriend on a couple of occasions to the lure of shiny tops in the open plan shops. As I could see for miles there was little danger of us becoming separated. My height had not gone unnoticed by a few members of my group either and as the tour went on they started using me as a light house to guide them through the sea of endless Chinese.

The day ended with a trip to see the world famous Shanghai acrobats. I didn’t take any pictures but they were excellent. In terms of leaping and swinging and other such ridiculously dexterous pursuits they clearly are some of the best I have ever seen.

I explored Shanghai with Travelsphere.

Shanghai Noon Becomes Shanghai Nights: Part 1

2009-02-12T00:48:00.040Z

I have always wanted to visit China. Growing up watching Jackie Chan and a love of the culture from the Far East has always made seeing it a top priority for me. Finally, after many years, I was flying into Shanghai and my Chinese adventure was about to begin. My first impression of Shanghai was not good. Straight off the plane I was herded onto a coach and off we went towards the cities famous Bund River.

Upon stepping off the coach I was hit with a mixture of pollution, tiredness from the flight and people trying to sell me junk. This didn’t help to give me a good first impression of the place. Visibility across the Bund was awful and it then began to rain. At least the food was nice.

Leaving the Bund I headed for the Jade Buddha Temple hidden deep within the city. Even the rain and fatigue couldn’t disguise what a wonderful place this was. Fully in use, the temple was busy with worshippers and filled with unique smells of burning scent.

This was the kind of place I was hoping still existed in China. Finding such beauty buried within the Shanghai sprawl was a welcome sight. Its ornate and unique wonder should be explored by anyone visiting the city.

After an exhausting day, and Jade Buddha Temple aside, I was glad just to get in bed and put the chaos behind me. As often happens, Shanghai seemed a much better place after a nights sleep.

I explored Shanghai with Travelsphere.